Friday, November 28, 2008

The Alternate Thanksgiving of Amazingness for Two

Happy Thanksgiving (belated a day...I was busy thanking & snacking)!  Never being one who was overly enthused by turkey, my Thanksgiving menu is both yummier (in my opinion) and faster to make!  My plans this holiday to hang out with my dad and step-mom were also shot (due to one bad back and one really bad cold) so this dinner is for two (though technically like, 8 people could have probably eaten this all and been completely satisfied).

The Menu:

Appetizers:
Baked Brie with Figs
Dates
Soppressata salami (yes!)

Entree:
Mixed Peppercorn Beef Tenderloin with Shallot-Port Reduction

Sides:
Brussels Sprouts with Currants and Pine Nuts
Smashed Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Chives

All I can say is this is one of the most fantastic meals I and my uber-wonderful co-chef have ever made (yes, I allowed him to graduate from sous chef since he actually does a lot more than Tarot-the-cat.  Similarly, our cat slept in the corner the entire day and only came out of his coma to eat a small piece of beef and later barf on the carpet after eating his cat food too quickly for the second day in a row).  The recipes came mostly from Cooking Light's Nov 2008 issue for those who want to know but I've changed a few things around of course.

Baked Brie with Figs:
I made this earlier in the day since I knew it would be way too much at dinner. It's really easy. Get a wheel of brie at the store...mine was actually a relatively big one at 14 oz, but I believe they also come in 4 and 8 oz sizes as well. Preheat your oven to 350.  Put the brie rind and all on a pie pan (I had a glass one, but I'm sure putting it on a cookie sheet would be fine too) and brush a little melted butter on it.  Arrange slices of fresh figs (if you live in California) on the brie and pop in the oven for about 10-12 minutes, or until it feel nice and soft when you press on the center of it.  Take it out and remove the slices of figs and put to the side.  Take a fig spread (our favorite is the Organic Adriatic Fig Spread jar with the orange top) and slather on a nice amount right on top of the wheel (again leave the rind...I swear rind is good this way). Put your cooked little figgy slices back on top for decoration.  Eat with baguette slices!

Prep Work:
It would have been easier if I had done it this way instead of the kitchen madness that ensued. But it was damn worth it.

-Chop about 4 big shallots up finely...you will need 1/4 cup for the reduction and 1/4 cup for the brussels sprouts so do it all at once.
-Chop up about 3 tbs of fresh chives for the potatoes.
-Take out about 3/4 cup or 6 oz of goat cheese from your fridge.  Let it get more room temperature.  I got one of those little medallion sized goat cheeses and that seemed about the right amount.
-Peel about 2 lbs of potatoes (in my case I believe this was about 5 medium sized taters).  We went for red, but any baking type should do.  Chop them into 1" pieces so when you boil them they won't take forever to get soft.  Put your pot of cold water on to boil and hey, toss the potatoes in while you're at it for good measure as they should start out in the cold water.  Add a pinch of salt in there. Once they boil they should take about 15 minutes of simmering to get soft.
-Chop up a tsp of fresh thyme.

Step One: Start your reduction.
In a saucepan (or in my case I used my medium sized cast iron skillet...just make sure whatever you're using is deep enough to contain all the liquid) combine:
-2 cups of ruby port or other sweet red wine (we went for Krohm Porto ruby port wine)
-1 1/2 cups of fat-free, less-sodium beef broth
-1/4 cup of finely chopped shallots
-1/8 tsp of salt (like I would measure this out...just toss a pinch in!)
-2 sprigs of fresh parsley
-1 spring of fresh thyme
Bring to a boil and let reduce to 1 1/4 cups for about 15-20 minutes.  While that's reducing we'll keep going.

Step Two: Get your steak on!
Take out your steaky!  First of all I felt a little confused as to what part of the cow a beef tenderloin is, but felt it had to do something with filet mignon. Basically, I think I learned the filet is the end of the entire tenderloin, but the important thing is: Can I find it in a grocery store?  So while perusing the meat dept. at my local Safeway I only found giant 6 lb tenderloins or individual filet steaks.  Quite the discrepancy.  My recipe calls for a two lb tenderloin so if you're making this for two I suggest taking it down to 1 1/2 lbs or maybe even 1 lb.  The thing is, this meat came out so good you may want the 1 1/2 just for after dinner, pre-Thanksgiving coma snacking.  Which is exactly what I asked my Safeway meat girl.  She came back with a 1 1/2 lb filet mignon but all in one piece (instead of in individual steak or medallion size) and it was damn pretty.

Ok, now press about 1 tsp of salt and 1 1/2 tbs of cracked mixed peppercorns into the outside of your steak.  Instead of making this in the oven in a shallow roasting pan as the recipe called for, we decided to heat our oven to 350 and then sear the tenderloin for about a minute on each side in a cast iron skillet with a little olive oil on the stove.  Once that's done just toss it in the oven for about 20-25 minutes in the same skillet (NOTE: this only works if you have a cast iron skillet.  Non-stick varieties need not apply).  If you'd rather the original method the recipe called for putting it in the roasting pan with some spray oil for 33 minutes at 450.  But I like my steak a bit rarer.

Now this is when the lightning speed happened.  I actually had to turn my steak off and just let it chill for a while because my reduction was taking too long.  I don't want that to happen to you so....that's why I'm having you start the reduction first.

Step Three: I'm be-SIDES myself!
So that last step is really quick.  Hopefully your potatoes are soft now.  Technically your boyfriend did this part of the meal so he should have to write this up but he looks busy connected to his laptop.  So!  (Status update: He is editing the photos for this post!  Love him!)
Before we do that we are going to toast some pine nuts and get the sprouts started.  I purchased about 1 lb of sprouts I believe but whatever looks good to you.  We also always search for the littlest sprouts since they will be more tender and leave the others for people who believe bigger is better (seriously, does it always have to be about size with you?).  

Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium high heat and add 1 tbs of pine nuts (I added a little more since I like them).  Cook about 2 minutes or until toasted then chop coarsely.  I added a tiny bit of olive oil and NOW I realize why that didn't seem to work so wonderfully, though the nuts still came out fine, I just had to blot them off in the end.  Melt some butter in a pan over medium-high and then add 1/4 cup chopped shallots.  Let these saute for a minute, stirring frequently, and then toss in your sprouts (George always cuts a plus sign into the "stem" part so they cook faster), 2 tbs of dried currants, 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme (you chopped this in the prep part), 1/4 tsp of salt and 1/4 tsp of black pepper.  Toss and add 1/2 cup of fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth.  Cover, reduce heat and let cook for around 7 mins.

Meanwhile, drain your potatoes and return them to the same pan or pot you boiled them in (and remember, in Courtney's kitchen peeling your potatoes is always optional, though this time we did) on low heat.  Add 1 tsp of salt and 2 tbs of butter.  Mash those babies!!  Then put in the goat cheese you let soften up and 1/4 tsp of black pepper.  The heat should still be on low so it shouldn't take all that long to get melty.  Stir in 1 cup of 2% milk and let cook 1 minute (this way is nice because then the milk won't make your hot potatoes turn room temperature!)  Lastly, stir in the chives you chopped up earlier.  Them taters are done!

Step Four: Finishing up
Your reduction should be ready to take your relationship to the next level. Strain the mixture through a sieve (or in my case a colander) and remove all the solids.  WHAT?  Remove all those tasty shallots!?  I know.  I thought that was whack too so I tossed my herbs, but put my shallots in a nice little bowl to throw on my steak later.  Combine 1 1/2 tbs of all-purpose flour and 3 tbs of water in a separate little bowl.  Return your port mixture to the pan and add the flour mixture to it while you whisk it in.  Whisk it!  Whisk it good.  Bring it to a boil again until it gets nice and thick (I swear I looked away for a second and then it was perfect, so it happens pretty fast) then remove it from the heat and whisk in 1 tbs of butter and a dash of balsamic vinegar (about 1/2 a tsp). Holy eff you're reduction is done!  Your steak probably is too, so I hope you took that out.  Carve into it to make sure it's done the way you like.  Doing it my way was perfect.  It was nice and pink, but redder toward the center so there is something for everyone.

Also, just finish up your sprouts.  Uncover them and cook about 4 mins or so until your broth evaporates.  When I uncovered mine my broth was ALREADY evaporated, so I took this as a sign that god loves me and wants to continue to shower my life with beef tenderloin.  When they look good and tender ( I love how green they get a minute after you first put them in) they are done!  All that's left is to sprinkle on your chopped toasty pine nuts.

Now that may seem like a lot of steps, but it's a great alternative to cooking a turkey for four hours.  With good planning this meal hardly takes more than a hour to make.  Which leaves more time for the greens (come on guys, vegetables!) California is so known for.  Plate everything, light your instant-romance candles and enjoy!  The reduction sauce has a tendency to get a skin on the top of it as it's cooling.  After you slice some beef portions and put it on the plates, just stir the sauce before you ladle it over the meat.  I absolutely LOVED the sprouts too because the shallots, pine nuts and currants mixed together amazingly and taste like candy.  And mashed potatoes with goat cheese have such an awesome tang.  I was really happy (and thankful) everything came out to perfection, and the meal was so good that I didn't even feel the need to contemplate dessert.  We just ate everything!

 (All photos by George P. Macklin.)

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Ali's Kitchen: Potato and Leek Gratin With Cumin

It's cold. My head hurts. It's the perfect time for this dish. This recipe for potato and leek gratin with cumin comes directly from the "Recipes for Health" feature of the New York Times Health section, ironically not the Dining & Wine section. At first glance you (depending on your cultural baggage) might think, "Potatoes? Gratin? What is this doing in 'Recipes for Health?'" Well, here's why:

Cheese isn't bad for you! Neither are potatoes! Calcium and protein. Fiber and potassium. THE. END.

Well, not The End, obviously, but let's point something out: This recipe uses less than 1 cup of Gruyère, in a dish meant for 6-8 people. You can use even less cheese, if you like, and you'll still get the creamy effect. That's hardly a lot of dairy fat. And, since this is from the Health section, they've substituted the cream that's in many gratins for lowfat milk. Works just fine everytime, and your tummy (if it's sensitive) will thank you. Herewith, the text of their recipe, interspersed with pictures from Carlita Canon:

INGREDIENTS
1 garlic clove, cut in half
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 pound leeks, white and light green parts only, cut in half lengthwise, sliced and rinsed of sand
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted and crushed in a mortar and pestle or a spice mill (I had cumin seeds as well as ground cumin, but not a mortar/pestle or spice mill. I just used the ground cumin.)
2 pounds russet potatoes or Yukon golds, peeled if using russets, scrubbed if using Yukon golds, and sliced 1/4 inch thick
(I'm using red potatoes because for some bizarre reason, that's all the grocery store had. I think I also bought more than 2 lbs - our grocery doesn't have a scale, oddly enough - because this practically overflowed my 2.2 lb casserole.)
3 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (3/4 cup, tightly packed)
2 1/3 cups low-fat milk

PREPARATION
1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Rub the inside of a 2-quart gratin or baking dish with the cut side of the garlic clove. Brush lightly with olive oil.
2. Heat the remaining olive oil in a wide, heavy nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the leeks. Cook, stirring often, until tender, for about 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and stir in the crushed cumin seeds. Stir together for half a minute and remove from the heat.
3. Place the potatoes in a large bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Add the leeks mixture and half the cheese, and toss together. Arrange in the baking dish in an even layer. Pour in the milk.


Place the baking dish on a baking sheet and place in the oven.
4. Bake the gratin for 45 minutes, checking after 30 minutes and pressing the potatoes down into the milk with the back of a spoon. At 45 minutes, remove the dish from the oven and again press the potatoes down into the liquid. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top and bake for another 30 to 45 minutes, or until nicely browned. Remove from the heat and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

There you have it! In retrospect, I would add that:

- Putting a cookie sheet under the pan is helpful, in case the milk boils over in your small casserole;
- Possibly cover the top with aluminum foil for at least part of the early cooking so it doesn't get too brown. The color doesn't make a difference in the AWESOME taste, but if you need to serve this to someone other than your living partner, it might be a nice touch.


The article means this recipe for a vegetarian main dish , but we are having it with sautéed chicken breasts, whipped up while the gratin is cooling. Simply:

1. Rinse, pat dry, lightly salt and pepper the chicken, etc. and so forth with your basic prep.
2. Dredge the breasts through some milk, then through some flour mixed with coriander, paprika, and garlic powder, just to keep things interesting.

Coriander and paprika are fun with the cumin, but use your own favorite spice here.

3. Preheat some olive oil or butter or both in the UNWASHED pan you used for the leeks.

4. Sauté about 5-7 minutes per side (totally depends on the size of the breasts).

(If you use GARGANTUAN chicken breasts like some of us, then when both sides are brown and they STILL aren't done, take the gratin out to cool and put the chicken in the oven in its place, in either a 400-degree-safe pan, or in another casserole. If your chicken breasts are big enough that 8 minutes per side didn't do it in the pan [these are the Frankenstein breasts about whose growing process I'd like to keep in the dark], then at least 10 minutes still at that 375ºF should do it. If you're hopeless at cooking poultry, like I am, then a meat thermometer always helps.)



Boom. Dinner. Le yum yum.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Amsterdam Vacation Culinary Roundup

Dag! Here in the Netherlands, specifically North Holland, the food is solid, warm and wholesome. Since Amsterdam has long been a crossroads for cultures, and the Netherlands long a colonizer to the world, this breeds an interesting combination of flavors and textures. Observe:

Zuurklooschotel met riesgling
("Sauerkraut with Riesling" - Salted pork, bacon, sausage, frankfuter and rozeval potato)


What K lovingly refers to as "half a pig"


Jet lagged on our first evening, we ordered room service in. And what pleasantly surprising room service it was. I think those oval-shaped things are the "bacon," since Europeans are weird like that. The sausage was absolutely succulent, and the "frankfurters" were a far cry from Nathan's Famous. This meal was so delectable that I was forced to admit my non-abhorence of sauerkraut. I can't even tell you about the mustard. OH MY GOD, THE MUSTARD. However, it was the SALT, not the mustard, that swelled my eyes up to veritable capsules the next morning. Worth it, but I really should have known better.

FYI, they sell beer here that's up to 9% alcohol.

It tastes super, duper fabulous


I don't know if it's the increased alcohol content or the supposedly-cleaned-daily pipes that lead to the superior taste and easier headache ratio (said the gal who gets a headache from one beer, normally).

Another thing they do differently here: Goat cheese.

Je suis le chevre
It looks creamy, and if one had never seen cheese outside of the 48 contiguous states, one might assume it was Brie. But it's not Brie. It's good.

Yet ANOTHER thing they do differenetly here. Fries. With MAYONNAISE:

All your cellulite are belong to us


That shite is disconcertingly tasty, but I suspect only when it's "real" mayonnaise. None of that bottled BS.

Here we have some cheese. Didn't get the name of the cheese - just "Dutch cheese," aged and young. With mustard. OH MY GOD, TEH MUSTARD.

Sinuses open farther than a yogi's hip joints


One night we had Indonesian for dinner. This is a prevelant cuisine in the Netherlands, due to the fact that the Dutch colonized Indonesia for some inhumane amount of time. I can never remember if it was four or six hundred years, and cannot be bothered at this moment to Google the fact.

This is a rijsttafel:

"rice table"


Ours consisted of - vaguely from back row to front row, left to right - beef satay, spiced chicken, spiced beef, spiced fish (with hidden chilis, OMG), vegetables in coconut milk, vegetables in coconut sauce, [second row] fried chicken (wrapped in some kind of dark pepper skin), cucumber salad, shrimp crackers, something I didn't catch, soy bean paste. (And steamed rice in the front there.)

All I have to say is that HOLY CRAP, INDONESIAN FOOD IS GOOD. And SPICY.

And now, for the Dutch master work: PANNENKOEKEN!

Banana pancake, front. Apple pancake, background



Bacon pancake


Those crazy Europeans and their "bacon." Which is really "pancetta." Pssh.


And you know what? Our last night we felt entitled to be a little lazy, so we camped out at the hotel's restaurant, which conveniently showcased another couple of Dutch strenghts: Seafood and game.
Oysters:

The Aftermath. They were Dutch.



Duck!


It was literally a choice between duck, quail, pigeon, venison, and a bunch of fish we'd never heard of. All hail the adventurous Dutch palate.


My favorite thing about Amsterdam, just discovered since I've never been before, is that you can walk anywhere and everywhere. So it makes a whole bunch of sense to me why their food is so rich and yummy, and why they're still so comparatively slim. The one Dutch treat I didn't get to try was a herring roll, with pickles and onions. Granted, working at a Swedish restaurant gave me more than enough exposure to herring (ugh) and I know that I actually don't care for it, but herring here would have been like, say, blood sausage in the U.K. Oh well. Next time!